Before we even landed in Istanbul, I had heard about the Grand Bazaar here. I had formulated an image in my mind of endless booths filled with wares and treats, a vast array of things to see and taste, loud and crazy, fun to explore. This is, in fact, how I have found it. The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Market are two separate markets in Istanbul frequently visited by tourists. There is an almost endless list of things available: jewelry, leather goods, scarves, shoes, teas, dried fruits and candies, lamps, toys, and musical instruments. I didn't expect to do a lot of shopping, but it's a fascinating place to visit and great for people watching, which is one of my favorite things to do while traveling. What I didn't anticipate was how I would respond to the aggressive sales tactics that are unavoidable here.
I can't decide if it's because I'm older or because I'm such an introvert that the markets here are so stressful for me. Julia and I have walked through one market or another almost every day this week and we've started a list of all the calls we hear. The standard is "Hello! Yes, please!" To which we mumble under our breaths "yes please what?!" or sometimes out loud a "no, thank you." Other lines get much more creative.
Here are a few of our favorites:
"Prices better than Wal-Mart, quality better than K-Mart."
"I have everything here but customers..."
"Next carpet shop is 10 miles!"
"Hey Mama, I have more colors inside." (directed to me)
"Hey beautiful ginger lady. Where you from?" (directed to Julia)
"Hey, who's in charge? Are you in charge? If you let me be in charge, you eat dinner here!"
" Hey, you want to spend money? I'll help you spend money!"
Other store owners just resort to loud noises to get your attention, like clapping or banging. By the time I have reached the opposite edge of the market, my ears are ringing and Julia and I are clinging to each other in the center of the aisle, hoping we can check out a few more things without catching anyone's attention. Julia has perfected the art of the blank stare, either pretending that she doesn't understand what they are saying, or clearly communicating that she holds no promise as a customer. She seems to dismiss the attention and aggressive sales tactics with the shrug of her shoulder.
For me it is not so easy. I get annoyed. I find myself resenting the fact that I can't look for 2 seconds at any merchandise without being forced to hear an aggressive sales pitch. I think, "they should understand how unappealing their sales tactics are and figure out how to make people like me more comfortable as a customer". I ignore all of them and lose the nerve to inquire about things I really am curious about. This probably has something to do with the fact that conversation with strangers does not come easily to me, but it also has to do with the fact that I know I like to keep people happy. In many areas of my life, I work to make sure that the people around me get what they need. If I'm honest, it's hard for me to repeatedly say "No". And I would be just as happy not to interact with store owners at all until I have determined that I am ready to purchase. Then I wonder, how badly do they need my business? It is then that I realize that I have identified myself as a rich foreigner who can "help" a poorer Turkish merchant. There is guilt at both ends of that one.
But as I listen to some of the other college students we are traveling with, I realize that maybe it's a lot more simple than that. These sales tactics are the norm here. Joining in the fray is just another way to experience life in Turkey. Sometimes they make a sale, sometimes they don't. Maybe they are as curious about all the foreigners walking their markets as we are about them and want a chance to interact, while at the same time making a living. It's a way of life. They are doing their best to make a sale and it's not about hurt feelings or oppression or aggressive tendencies.
One of the treats of this trip is having our two youngest children along. They are helping me to remember what it was like to travel when I was younger and more flexible, to see the places where I have become rigid. Watching them and the college students I can let myself breath a little easier. "It's all good" as they say. Julia found a nice pair of "genie pants" that she wanted and in the process of buying them, we were invited to sit down for tea with the store owners. They introduced us to candied chestnuts as a means to sweeten the taste of the very strong black tea people drink daily here. You take a spoonful of candied chestnut into your mouth and eat it. Then, when you drink your tea, the sweet taste of the chestnut is still on your tongue, softening the taste. It was delicious. The store owner talked about his shop in Japan and how his sister was born in Germany so his nieces speak German. I truly enjoyed making that purchase. I got a lot more than a pair of pants.
This afternoon all the women in the group are going together to visit a Turkish bath. I'm not sure I'd have the nerve to do it on my own, but I'm looking forward to it and grateful for the reminders of how much fun travel can be when you make the effort to extend yourself.
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